So we’re always working to help you improve your Do-It-Yourself project outcome. Please take a look at these helpful hints:

Wanna take a guess as to the biggest issue with applying spray paint (whether it be primer, basecoat or clearcoat)?

PREP PREP PREP!!!

Paint (basecoat) will not bubble, curdle, blemish, fish-eye or anything else if the underlying surface has been prepped correctly. So in order to prep a surface, you need to do at least 2 things:

1. First, you gotta fully CLEAN the underlying surface of dirt, wax, grease, human oils, etc etc etc. If you don’t properly clean the surface, you are going to encounter an ‘oil and water’ situation – the surface and the paint are going to fight with each other. So if you are working over a panel that’s already on the car, get some soapy (dishwater detergent) warm water & wash off the mud etc. Then for the wax buildup, sticky tree sap & any other type of gunk, take some wax/grease remover or lacquer thinner & CLEAN’ER UP GOOD til you have a perfectly clean surface.

2. Second, ensure that the paint product will stick to the surface by roughing up the surface with sandpaper, scratch pad etc. Paint will not stick to a slick surface. PERIOD.

We sell QUALITY paint, and we can assure you that our paint will lay down BEAUTIFULLY if you properly 1) prep the surface and 2) apply the paint.

We have THOUSANDS of happy customers. We have a few unhappy customers. DON’T BE ONE OF THE UNHAPPY ONES – PREP PREP PREP!!!!

Did you know that in the painting biz PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT?

You Got it! And this is no truer than mastering the art of sprayout. A couple of pointers:
1. We include premium quality spray nozzles that are factory-set so you spray SIDE-TO-SIDE (left to right).

2. ALWAYS make sure that the spray tip/arm is MOVING when paint is spraying out – if it ain’t movin’ while it’s sprayin’, you’re gonna have a drip – GUARANTEED!!!

3. Practice spraying on something other than your panel. Cardboard isn’t the best surface for practicing as it is very absorbent (which makes it hard to see when you are about to have a drip). Shiny magazine pages work pretty well actually, but they are small – you can tape them together. The best surface to practice on is metal. It’s always better to prime a surface (hey that’s practicing too!!!) first before painting-practicing.

4. Always try to practice on a vertical surface (hang the surface up) – especially if you’ll be painting a vertical surface – in this situation you’ve got gravity working against you, which creates an ideal environment for a drip. If you can sprayout on a vertical surface without drips, you’re doin’ well!

5. As a side note, if you can master the art of spraying on metal then painting on wood or sheetrock will be a breeze.

Which is harder to apply, spray paint (basecoat) or clearcoat?

If you guess spray paint you are wrong! Clearcoat is a LOT harder to spray out. Why?
1. Unlike primer or spray paint (basecoat), it is so much harder to SEE clearcoat going on. If you can’t see a drip forming, you’re gonna form a drip. Our natural inclination is to just keep spraying with clearcoat because we don’t see a layer on the paint surface. That’s when problems occur.

2. Thickness. Keep in mind that the purpose of paint is to COLOR a surface – Clearcoat’s function is to PROTECT the paint – so it make sense that the thickness of clearcoat is going to be a lot more than the thickness of paint. Clearcoat tends to spray out more material per second than basecoat. Beware, it happens quicker than you think!

3. So the way you get enough clearcoat protection over the top of your paint is to do multiple coats.

4. Clearcoat may appear to look discolored; carmel in color. Why? Typically this is because it’s been applied to thickly. Wait a few WEEKS and this will go away. Promise.

5. Always use the premium adjustable nozzle (with the little yellow spray tip) we supply with your basecoat and clearcoat. This nozzle is 10 times better than the factory one because it has a vertical spray pattern – the factory nozzles you get with a typical spray can from an autoparts or home improvement store have a circular (round) spray pattern. Using these is a prime way to create uneven coverage and drips. If a nozzle plugs up because paint product has dried in it, use another nozzle – they’re all interchangeable with all of our paint products: primer, basecoat & clearcoat.

6. We can’t emphasize enough to READ THOSE APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS that were sent with your order…

You gotta buff the surface to get out the ‘orange peel’ effect and to get that shine to emerge

Yep, even the paint jobs from car manufacturers and professional bodyshops has the orange peel (ripple) effect in it. This has to be buffed out.

But wait, do you think we were kidding when we say ‘Wait 30 Days before buffing’?

Hell no! Why is this important? Well, we sell a type of clearcoat that catalyzes (gets hard) using moisture in the air. Sorry folks, but you just gotta let time do its job. Wait those 30 days – especially in colder conditions.