So we’re always working to help you improve your Do-It-Yourself project outcome. Please take a look at these helpful Automotive Touch Up DIY hints:
Wanna take a guess as to the biggest issue with applying spray paint (whether it be primer, basecoat or clearcoat)?
PREP PREP PREP!!!
You should always make sure to test the color of the paint you ordered! Sometimes people can pick the wrong color code. If you follow out instructions to find yours then you won’t need to worry about this! But always double check to make sure! Our business cards we send with you in our orders have a test section on the back!
Paint (basecoat) will not bubble, curdle, blemish, fish-eye or anything else if the underlying surface has been prepped correctly. So in order to prep a surface, you need to do at least 2 things:
First, you gotta fully CLEAN the underlying surface of dirt, wax, grease, human oils, etc etc etc. If you don’t properly clean the surface, you are going to encounter an ‘oil and water’ situation – the surface and the paint are going to fight with each other. So if you are working over a panel that’s already on the car, get some soapy (dishwater detergent) warm water & wash off the mud etc. Then for the wax buildup, sticky tree sap & any other type of gunk, take some wax/grease remover or lacquer thinner & CLEAN’ER UP GOOD til you have a perfectly clean surface.
Second, ensure that the paint product will stick to the surface by roughing up the surface with sandpaper, scratch pad etc. Paint will not stick to a slick surface. PERIOD.
We sell QUALITY paint, and we can assure you that our paint will lay down BEAUTIFULLY if you properly 1) prep the surface and 2) apply the paint.
We have THOUSANDS of happy customers. We have a few unhappy customers. DON’T BE ONE OF THE UNHAPPY ONES – PREP PREP PREP!!!! Prep should be considered one of the, if not the most, important things when applying automotive touch up diy.
Did you know that in the painting biz PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT?
You Got it! And this is no truer than mastering the art of sprayout. A couple of pointers:
We include premium quality spray nozzles that are factory-set so you spray SIDE-TO-SIDE (left to right).
ALWAYS make sure that the spray tip/arm is MOVING when paint is spraying out – if it ain’t movin’ while it’s sprayin’, you’re gonna have a drip – GUARANTEED!!!
Practice spraying on something other than your panel. Cardboard isn’t the best surface for practicing as it is very absorbent (which makes it hard to see when you are about to have a drip). Shiny magazine pages work pretty well actually, but they are small – you can tape them together. The best surface to practice on is metal. It’s always better to prime a surface (hey that’s practicing too!!!) first before painting-practicing.
Always try to practice on a vertical surface (hang the surface up) – especially if you’ll be painting a vertical surface – in this situation you’ve got gravity working against you, which creates an ideal environment for a drip. If you can spray out on a vertical surface without drips, you’re doin’ well!
As a side note, if you can master the art of spraying on metal then painting on wood or sheetrock will be a breeze.
Which is harder to apply, spray paint basecoat or clearcoat?
If you guess spray paint you are wrong! Clearcoat is a LOT harder to spray out. Why?
Unlike primer or spray paint (basecoat), it is so much harder to SEE clearcoat going on. If you can’t see a drip forming, you’re gonna form a drip. Our natural inclination is to just keep spraying with clearcoat because we don’t see a layer on the paint surface. That’s when problems occur.
Thickness. Keep in mind that the purpose of paint is to COLOR a surface – Clearcoat’s function is to PROTECT the paint – so it make sense that the thickness of clearcoat is going to be a lot more than the thickness of paint. Clearcoat tends to spray out more material per second than basecoat. Beware, it happens quicker than you think!
So the way you get enough clearcoat protection over the top of your paint is to do multiple coats.
Clearcoat may appear to look discolored; carmel in color. Why? Typically this is because it’s been applied to thickly. Wait a few WEEKS and this will go away. Promise.
Always use the premium adjustable nozzle (with the little yellow spray tip) we supply with your basecoat and clearcoat. This nozzle is 10 times better than the factory one because it has a vertical spray pattern – the factory nozzles you get with a typical spray can from an autoparts or home improvement store have a circular (round) spray pattern. Using these is a prime way to create uneven coverage and drips. If a nozzle plugs up because paint product has dried in it, use another nozzle – they’re all interchangeable with all of our paint products: primer, basecoat & clearcoat.
We can’t emphasize enough to READ THOSE APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS that were sent with your order…
To see a video on application check these youtube videos!
Orange Peel and Clear Coat
You gotta buff the surface to get out the ‘orange peel’ effect and to get that shine to emerge. Also remember to make sure the clear coat is at the proper temperature before applying. Around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You can submerge the can in a glass of warm water to heat the can up, or a cool glass to cool it down if it was in your hot garage!
Yep, even the paint jobs from car manufacturers and professional bodyshops has the orange peel (ripple) effect in it. This has to be buffed out.
Remember, when it comes to preventing orange peel it doesn’t matter what clear coat you’re using or the price you paid for it, it can happen. You need to make sure the can of clear coat is warmed up before you apply. We suggest warming it to 80 degrees Fahrenheit before applying to your vehicle. An easy way to do this is get a container that can fit the can, fill it with warm water and leave the clear coat in the container for a few minutes to warm it up.
But wait, do you think we were kidding when we say ‘Wait 30 Days before buffing’?
Hell no! Why is this important? Well, we sell a type of clearcoat that catalyzes (gets hard) using moisture in the air. Sorry folks, but you just gotta let time do its job. Wait those 30 days – especially in colder conditions.
Utilize the Proper Automotive Touch Up DIY Tools
Most DIY’s want to keep the price down, that’s why they’re doing it themselves right? This is great, and what we want to help you accomplish. At the ERAPaints shop we offer a variety of kits. But we don’t want you skipping over the primer or clearcoat. These are paramount to achieving a great end result. Just because we have kits that leave some of these out doesn’t mean you should buy those because they’re cheaper. We create these kits incase our shoppers already have clearcoat or primer at home and just need to match their color with a premium quality basecoat. If you don’t have these you should purchase the full kit and use all the pieces even if it’s more expensive. The whole point is to save you thousands of dollars in auto body costs. But if you don’t follow the necessary steps you’ll most likely have to do the process multiple times which will cost you money and time in the long run. Do it correct the first time so you don’t have to do it again!